Saturday 23 January 2016

Carbon Interior Install - Day Five - The Install

I'll start off this post by summarising the last few days of this install:-
  • Day one was prep work and getting out the curved side panels
  • On day two I managed to get out the rear bulkhead and the panel in the drivers section
  • And on the third day I got the final (passenger side) panel out!
  • Day four was an 'easy' day with just a weigh in...
It's now the fifth day of this project, and I've finally reached the best bit - the refitting... So on we go... Firstly, I went round with a torch inspecting all two hundred and thirty seven rivet holes, to see if there were any rivet remainders was left in the holes - using a combination of a 3.5mm metal drill and this thin punch I bought from halfrauds I meticulously ensured that every hole was free of any previous rivets. 
Tapping and drilling out rivet remainders
Tapping and drilling out rivet remainders
With all the rivets drilled out, and any remainders punched through - you'd think this would mean the interior was ready to refit, but - what you've actually done is put hundreds of noise producing rivet heads that'll slosh around in your chassis tubes... This didn't even cross my mind, but I guess it'd be soooo irritating listening to those pinging around your chassis all the time - but good ol' Simon Lambert suggested that to stop these vibrating around would be to put some waxoil / dinitrol into the tubes which would then collect the heads, stopping the rattling!  So plenty of dinitrol 3125 went into the lower parts of each tube.
Dinitrol 3125 being sprayed into chassis tubes to collect rivet heads / pins
Dinitrol 3125 being sprayed into chassis tubes to collect rivet heads / pins
There were some comments raised on the lotus 7 forum, suggesting that whilst I had the interior skin off, it'd be worth removing the crash protection panels and protecting the grot traps with some waxoil... Using a flat head screwdriver and a very small amount of force the crash panels were loosened from their silicone adhesive and were free - revealing the lower chassis tube and the associated 'grot'.
Crash Protection Panels were easy to remove
Crash Protection Panels were easy to remove
I've had the R500 for nearly two years now, and having covered a few thousand miles there was a little bit of dust and rubbish (grot) between the inside of the body skin and the chassis tubes - it was more evident on the passenger side though.  I cleaned out the grot as best I could with some compressed air, and a flat head screwdriver.  With the grot out (sounds odd!) I ran a thin bead of Dinitrol 3125 along the 'traps' for some anti corrosion protection - as can be seen in the picture below.
Dinitrol 3125 used to protect the grot traps and metal from corroding
Dinitrol 3125 used to protect the grot traps and metal from corroding
After applying the Dinitrol to the grot traps, the next logical step was to put the crash protection panels back.  I removed the existing silicone from the panels and the chassis tubes, and using some black silicone reapplied a thin bead for the crash panels to adhere to.  
Applying bead of black silicone to secure crash protection panels
Applying bead of black silicone to secure crash protection panels
I refitted the crash protection panels, but the silicone didn't really hold them in place all that well - I guess as the silicone was pretty slow drying stuff - the crash panels just didn't stick immediately.  So I thought the best thing to do was to 'trial fit' the first carbon interior panel.

The carbon interior panels look lovely, but don't be fooled by their two sided colours - it's definitely the matte side that should be visible, not the shiny side you may think at first... 

With a bit of wiggling, bending and twisting (the carbon - not me) the first 'interior' panel was in.  It was a little tricky getting it behind this panel (picture below) as you need to prise out the alloy panel for the carbon to slot in behind 
First interior panel trial fitted to drivers side
First interior panel trial fitted to drivers side
Here's a wider angle of the first panel trial fitted.
A wider angle shot of the first carbon interior panel
A wider angle shot of the first carbon interior panel
Having trial fitted the first interior panel on the drivers side, I thought it'd be a good idea to now trial fit the rear bulkhead.  Before I go on any further - I'd suggest you don't do this... The rear bulkhead has to be fitted first otherwise you'll scratch the hell out of your side panels wrestling with the bulkhead trying to get it in.  So... Remove the interior panel, and ensure the crash protection panels are secured in place whilst the silicone goes off with a bit of masking tape or similar.

Before trial fitting the rear bulkhead, it's worth double checking the holes - everything seemed to line up really well, but there were a few missing holes - namely the edge ones (no need to worry about these just yet) and two for the fuel filter.
Lining up both panels to check the drilled holes are in the right places
Lining up both panels to check the drilled holes are in the right places
With the both panels lined up (picture above) and using a paint marker, I marked out the two holes required for the fuel filter, and then drilled away - quite daunting on such a large panel, but I'd triple checked everything before the drill was used.
Two marked drill holes for fuel filter
Two marked drill holes for fuel filter
With the two holes made for the fuel filter, the next logical step seemed to be to trial fit the rear bulkhead.  Of course, it fits, but there is a bit of a 'knack' to it.  Firstly the tunnel cover needs to be completely removed (which is a pain!), but the bulkhead won't go on without removing the tunnel cover.  You need to bend the panel with the edges towards you at first, then place one side of the bulkhead in (drivers side seemed easier) then with the divers side in, you need to bend the passenger side section in the middle and towards you to get the edges in (see pic below).
Carbon rear bulkhead test fitted for first time
Carbon rear bulkhead test fitted for first time
With the rear bulkhead test fitted, and yours truly happy with the holes (everything lined up really well)... The only problem seemed to be getting the edges of the bulkhead (around the rear of the tunnel) fitted underneath the metal.  Having fiddled around for ages with this, it just wouldn't go - so the best solution I could figure out in my mid-raged state was to get a hammer out and bend things!  So I whipped out the rear bulkhead and bent the metal tabs towards the tunnel - pictured below.  You'll also notice I ran a bead of black silicone along the tubes, so that there wouldn't be any chance of rattles from carbon tapping on metal - not only that, but there was silicone on the metal bulkhead when I removed it which the factory fitted, so assuming they know best I copied them!
Rear bulkhead removed, tunnel 'tabs' bent inwards and black silicone applied to tubes
Rear bulkhead removed, tunnel 'tabs' bent inwards and black silicone applied to tubes
Now it was time to refit the rear bulkhead without getting silicone everywhere - easier said than done!  But , by using the same method to get the bulkhead in when trial fitted, and having bent the tabs in from the rear of the tunnel - it all went in a treat!
Carbon rear bulkhead is in!
Carbon rear bulkhead is in!
With the rear bulkhead finally in, and knowing it was kinda slopping around on the silicone - I didn't want to make a huge mess, so quickly got some middle rivets pushed in to hold it in place, whilst I readied my new tool :-)
A few rivets holding the rear bulkhead in place whilst I readied my new tool
A few rivets holding the rear bulkhead in place whilst I readied my new tool
Having fitted a fair number of rivets during the initial build, some of you may remember I bought a rivet attachment for a cordless drill - it was pretty good, and I was going to use it again, but with limited access in the footwell I didn't think it'd be used that much... I also didn't want arms / wrists like popeye, so found this neat 14.4v handheld rivet gun on Amazon.  It was £180, but a breeze to use - so money well spent!

All you need to do is put the rivet in, press the trigger, the rivet is popped in a second with hardly any scoring to the black heads and then the inner barrel runs backwards and spits out (slowly) the rivet pin - awesome!
Sealey 14.4v Cordless Riveter made light work of all the riveting required
Sealey 14.4v Cordless Riveter made light work of all the riveting required
A few of the holes needed minor drilling (with a 4mm metal drill bit) so that everything was straight before final riveting, but fifteen minutes or so later and it was all riveted and in place.  Don't forget to tap back the tunnel 'tabs' and rivet those too.
Carbon rear bulkhead fitted, siliconed, and riveted into place
Carbon rear bulkhead fitted, siliconed, and riveted into place
Then it was onto the drivers interior panel.  Again prising the section where your feet go forward slightly the tongue of this panel just slips into place.  Don't forget to add the rubber IVA strip if you're using any - I decided to, as I like the look and also the carbon may be a little sharp on exposed arms etc.  I didn't rivet the final (practically) vertical set of rivets, as this is riveted by the 'keystone' curved panel.
Drivers panel fitted and riveted into place
Drivers panel fitted and riveted into place
I noted that there was a fair amount of silicone in-between the outer edges of bottom of the rear bulkhead, and the trailing edge of the interior panels.  The old silicone was removed whilst I was cleaning up the car prior to installing and assuming this was for weatherproofing, I again copied what was already there.
A blob of silicone used for weatherproofing between rear bulkhead and interior panel
A blob of silicone used for weatherproofing between rear bulkhead and interior panel
All that was required now was to place the right hand curved panel into place and finish off the last twenty or so rivets.
The final few rivets ready to go!
Rivets ready to go in, on leading edge of curved carbon panel
I'd like to point out that the eleven vertical rivets didn't have pre-drilled holes, so these required drilling and riveting (of course)...  And then it was finished!  ta da!  Well the first side was!
The rear bulkhead, and drivers side fitted with the new Caterham Carbon Interior panels
The rear bulkhead, and drivers side fitted with the new Caterham Carbon Interior panels
Now all I had to do was to repeat the above few steps for the other side...  A couple of hours of riveting later and I found I was short by about thirty rivets...  Just a pointer - if after reading these install posts, and you've decided to take the plunge and give it a go - ensure you've at least 250 of these rivets as getting right to the end and being short by just a handful is a bit annoying.

Oh well - a quick call the next day to Tony at Caterham parts, and he kindly arranged for another 50 to be sent which arrived this morning, so I set out to finish off the final few rivets and then it was done!
The new Caterham carbon interior fully fitted to my R500
The new Caterham carbon interior fully fitted to my R500
In summary, this is a fairly big job - overall it took me about three days of work (had I been working from 9-5 every day, without interruptions).  The cost is reasonable considering how much carbon fibre you get for your money, and the look is superb - it really has made the car look like a different model - I guess because it practically is a 620R interior, but with a manual box, less power :-( but a stack dash and 'button' type switch gear - I really am very happy with the project. and having decided to take it on..   Not only that there's also a 2.094kg weight saving over my previous interior, so there should be a bit of extra performance too - I just need to get to the gym to work off the two stone I put on over Xmas :-)

Tomorrow (hopefully) I'll rebuild the rest of the bits on the car, and providing it's dry get a few 'nice' pictures of the interior.

2 comments:

  1. Did you manage to weigh the contents of the Dinitrol 3125? You go all weight saving and then fill the thing full of lard....

    ReplyDelete

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