Tuesday 18 February 2014

Build Day Fourteen, Decals, Watts Link and Brake Calipers

Build day fourteen is a combination of the fourteenth day, and today's progress which is in fact day fifteen, but the fourteenth day of building.

I had pre-organised the stone chip protection applicator guys to come round on day fourteen, and as the decals that were originally applied to the car were wrong we had to get the decals changed to the 'correct' ones which for me are the triple stripe variant before the stone chip protection film was applied.

The guys who fit the stone chip protection film from http://www.signsuk.co.uk (who also do the work for the CC supplied cars) came down from Burbage, Leiecstershire and arrived around 11am.  I had already got all the bits (nose cone, rear wings and bonnet) down from upstairs, so everything was ready for them to crack on.

Panels ready for decal re-application and stone chip protection film.
Panels ready for decal re-application and stone chip protection film.
The guys removing the originally fitted decals.
The guys removing the originally fitted decals.
They removed the decals and applied the first stripe on the side of the vehicle you can see in the picture above, but the new decals were a matt orange which didn't have the 'pop' of the fluorescent orange I'd become accustomed to.  The stipe also didn't have the chevrons in them (towards the front) so they were wrong.  After a fair bit of pondering, I decided it best to get the guys to stop and to come back at a later date with the correctly coloured (and cut) decals.  Ed (I think his name was) called his manager to discuss the 'situation' and they agreed to have the decals re-cut, printed and then to come back to do the stone chip protection film.
The stone chip protection film which will be applied over the (correct) decals.
The stone chip protection film which will be applied over the (correct) decals.
The disappointment then set in of another 'snag' which really sucked the motivation out of me, so I decided to just do a menial task of fiddling with the rear suspension and then I called it a day.

Tonight was a different matter.  I had set myself the task of fitting the watts link arms to the mounts provided and to the De Dion tube.  I also wanted to get the brake calipers on (or at least together) so the final duty would be to torque everything up.

I'd already sized the watts link arms as per the instructions on Sunday, but I found the bell crank to be too tight to fit the eyes in, so a quick email to Derek and he said he used to prise them open.  I found the best (and easiest) solution was to pop a t-bar socket in the top and give it a light tap with a soft hammer.

Opening the bell crank with a t-bar socket and a soft hammer.
Opening the bell crank with a t-bar socket and a soft hammer.
After fiddling around with the watts link arms, I decided to put them together off the car to ensure all the bolts and washers were correct which helped a great deal.
Watts link arms fitted together.
Watts link arms fitted together.
After fitting the watts link arms together I checked that all the bolts would fit into their respective mounts and the cap head bolt (passenger side) didn't fit as the hole hadn't been cut entirely.  So out with the Dremel to sand down the additional couple of mm of metal and then viola the cap head fitted in perfect.  The driver side was fine and didn't require any 'adjustment'
Using Dremel to open hole up for cap head bolt for Watts link front arm (passenger side)
Using Dremel to open hole up for cap head bolt for Watts link front arm (passenger side)
Fitting the arms was then pretty straight forward, however there were some small spacer washers which had to be fitted to the De Dion, and these were quite tight.  I copper slipped them, and found a way to push them into place using a small adjustable locking wrench and a piece of kitchen roll to protect the powder coat.
Pushing spacer washers into De Dion using small adjustable locking wrench and 'protective material'
Pushing spacer washers into De Dion using small adjustable locking wrench and 'protective material'
Front Watts link arm, note that the recessed edge points outboard.
Front Watts link arm, note that the recessed edge points outboard.
Rear Watts link arm, note that the recessed edge points inboard.
Rear Watts link arm, note that the recessed edge points inboard.
I then torqued the watts link bolts, marked them as torqued and then decided to tackle the brake calipers.  

I lightly greased the drive shaft splines and put the brake discs, thrust washer and hub nut in place and tightened gently.  Steve Grubb (Grubbster on blatchat) had very kindly emailed me a copy of a CC internal document he received which was a very handy step by step guide of how to put the calipers together.  I followed the pics and the have pretty much a finished rear suspension and brake setup, which was exactly what I had set out to achieve tonight so I feel very satisfied with the progress.

Rear brake disc and calliper in place.
Rear brake disc and calliper in place.
Rear calliper assembly with bolts (notice deliberate spacer error) in place.  just need to check with Derek tomorrow morning what the correct torque is for these bolts.
Rear calliper assembly with bolts (notice deliberate spacer error) in place.  just need to check with Derek tomorrow morning what the correct torque is for these bolts.
Tomorrow night I am just going to take it easy.  I'll finish the brake caliper fitment, fit the brake lines and torque up any remaining rear suspension and brake bolts that need tightening.

Sunday 16 February 2014

Build Day Thirteen, Rear Anti Roll Bar, Suspension and Track Day Roll Bar

After yesterday's beer and half kilo steak fuelled trip to London, I was sceptical about how much I'd get done today, but a quick Costa and I was right back on it about 11am.

Firstly I fitted the cotton reel shaped rubber bushes to the rear anti roll bar using plenty of rubber lubricant, and a flat headed screwdriver to prise the bushes around the corner.  They were then bolted to the chassis.

Rear anti roll bar with bushes, and attached to chassis.
Rear anti roll bar with bushes, and attached to chassis.
I wanted to get the rear shocks in today as I have the track day roll bar this needed to be installed before the suspension.  Otherwise the suspension blocks access to the cap head bolt of the underside of the roll bar mount.  Derek (my sisters boyfriend not CC) popped over today to lend a hand, so it was back in with the fuel tank, boot panels, and then the roll bar went on.

Track day roll bar mounted to car.
Track day roll bar mounted to car.
After the roll bar got man handled into place, we then had a try at putting the rear a-frame into place, but there was a little too much powder coat on the De Dion mooting points, so I had to get (the new) Dremel out and fettled away a small amount of the powder coat for the supplied bolt to fit snugly.
Rear A-Frame ready for installation, but there was a little too much powder coat on the De Dion mounting points, so had to get (the new) Dremel out and fettled a little of it away for the supplied bolt to go through.
Rear A-Frame ready for installation, but there was a little too much powder coat on the De Dion mounting points, so had to get (the new) Dremel out and fettled a little of it away for the supplied bolt to go through.
Rear A-Frame in place.
Rear A-Frame in place.
 Then the rear shocks went in along with the anti roll bar drop link connectors.  The instructions are a little confusing when it comes to the mounting of the drop link connectors, but after some reading, checking and re-reading we got there in the end.
Rear shock in along with the anti roll bar drop link.
Rear shock in along with the anti roll bar drop link.
We then decided to put the watts link arms on, we measured and adjusted them according to the instructions. Tried to then fit them into the bell crank's, but there's either too much powder coat or the wrong ones as they're about .5mm - 1mm too tight.  Will check with CC Derek tomorrow to see what he suggests.
Watts link arms correctly sized and ready to fit.  Shame the bell cranks seem too tight.
Watts link arms correctly sized and ready to fit.  Shame the bell cranks seem too tight.
The half finished project..! Great to see it coming together, with the roll bar and rear suspension (half) on it really is beginning to look like a car.
The half finished project..! Great to see it coming together, with the roll bar and rear suspension (half) on it really is beginning to look like a car.
Some guys are due tomorrow to remove the twin stripe decals from the sides and centre and then to replace these with the triple stripe I originally ordered.  After that they'll be applying a stone chip protection film to the entire side panels, rear arches and nose cone.

Saturday 15 February 2014

Build Day Twelve - Ears onto De Dion tube

We had a day out planned in London and were leaving at midday, so I managed to have a quick sneak out into the garage for an hour before we headed off.

I put the drive shafts in place, and bolted the ears and hub assembly to the De Dion tube, threaded locked and torqued the rear bolts and torqued the other 4 bolts on both sides.
De Dion ears fitted to the tube.  Bolts torqued and marked with orange paint marker.
De Dion ears fitted to the tube.  Bolts torqued and marked with orange paint marker.
It was only an hour, but it seemed like a lot was achieved.  I've been supplied single pot rear brake calipers, and I think they're supposed to be twin pot according to some online reviews I've read, so a post on blatchat and an email to Derek should give me the answers.... I don't want to bolt that lot on only to find out they're the wrong calipers and I have to replace them, so tomorrow will be rear anti roll bar, and anything else I can get done.

Friday 14 February 2014

Build Day Eleven - Rear Brake Lines, De Dion Tube and Dinitrol application

Friday the 14th of February - otherwise known as Valentines Day.  Charlotte's valentines day treat to me was to help install the De Dion tube (and a nice Pie and mash for dinner!)

I'd already fitted the brake lines to the De Dion tube a couple of nights ago so it was a case of attaching the braided brake hose, and putting the De Dion tube in place.

De Dion tube in place with brake lines and braided hose in place.
De Dion tube in place with brake lines and braided hose in place.

Another view of the rear brake hose.
Another view of the rear brake hose.
Drive shaft slipped into place extremely easily - this is normal though.
Drive shaft slipped into place extremely easily - this is normal though.
I went for a dry fit on the rear hub assembly as I wanted to spray Dinitrol 3125 on the inside of the De Dion and let it dry out a little before I bolted the ears on.
I went for a dry fit on the rear hub assembly as I wanted to spray Dinitrol 3125 on the inside of the De Dion and let it dry out a little before I bolted the ears on.

Dinitrol 3125 sprayed onto the inside of the De Dion tube.
Dinitrol 3125 sprayed onto the inside of the De Dion tube.

A small amount of Dinitrol 3125 sprayed along the chassis tubes in the engine bay and into the passenger and driver footwells.  It really is extremely messy the way it sprays out, so I wiped the 'over-splatter' and a decent amount of Dinitrol behind to seep into the gaps.
A small amount of Dinitrol 3125 sprayed along the chassis tubes in the engine bay and into the passenger and driver footwells.  It really is extremely messy the way it sprays out, so I wiped the 'over-splatter' and left a decent amount of Dinitrol behind to seep into the gaps.

I also sprayed the Dinitrol 3125 behind the interior panels as suggested by Andrew Bissell.
I'd like to hope the Dinitrol 3125 dries somewhat overnight so that I can re-attach the drive shafts and put the rear hub and brake calliper assemblies in place tomorrow morning.

Thursday 13 February 2014

Build Day Ten - More Prop Shaft Guard and Diff Filling

After looking for a number of different ways of drilling the holes for the rivets to hold the prop shaft guard in place, the smallest solution I could find was the Dremel 575, it's a right angle tool and was just the right size to fit in the tunnel.  Only problem was that the closest one to me was in Cambridge, so a very rapid trip there and back, and I had what I needed.  Also popped to B&Q to get a couple of new metal drills to make the drilling as painless as possible.

Lee popped over tonight to lend a hand, and we achieved drilling the holes for the rivets to rivet the prop shaft guard in place.  However I popped inside to organise the Domino's Pizza delivery, and left Lee to continue drilling the holes for the rivets.  When I went back to the garage there was an awful burning smell and one burnt out Dremel!  Anyway, amazon are great for customer service, so a new one should arrive early next week.  Luckily we'd done all the holes bar one, and have riveted the guard into place - this took a lot longer than you may think.
Using the dremel 575 right angle tool - perfect size to get into the tunnel to make way for the rivets.
Using the dremel 575 right angle tool - perfect size to get into the tunnel to make way for the rivets.  

The rivets through the tunnel to hold prop shaft guard in place.
The rivets through the tunnel to hold prop shaft guard in place.

We decided now was a good time to fill the diff, firstly with the supplied LSD additive and with the petrol tank out it was dead easy.
We decided now was a good time to fill the diff, firstly with the supplied LSD additive and as the petrol tank was out it was dead easy.
Filling the diff with the diff oil supplied in the first fill pack.
Filling the diff with the diff oil supplied in the first fill pack.
Pizza arrived!

A 'short break' later and we went back out to fit the track day roll bar, as I read on another blog that this had to be fitted prior to the rear suspension, I wanted to get this fitted tonight so I could fit the rear suspension tomorrow evening.  Only problem - I can't get the aluminium boot skin back in (it was extremely tight to get out) and four of the roll bar bolts don't fit... So will have to get Derek to send me some new ones in the morning... Kinda annoying as these small things really hold the progress up.

Wednesday 12 February 2014

Build Day Nine - Preparing for Prop Shaft Guard, Diff Alignment and Prop Shaft Connection

A productive evening.  I'd got everything in order last night, checked with Derek on some finer detail and pressed on.  The plan was to completely install and rivet the prop shaft guard into place, but drilling through the chassis tube with the Dremel blunted all my Dremel drills, so I'll have to buy a few more of those tomorrow to finish that part.

Top of prop shaft guard and chassis tube prepared for riveting tomorrow evening.
Top of prop shaft guard and chassis tube prepared for riveting tomorrow evening.
As the handbrake is installed it made access to the area where I had to drill rivet holes in the chassis tube a little tight, so i put the Dremel Flexi Shaft into good use and it worked perfectly.
As the handbrake is installed it made access to the area where I had to drill rivet holes in the chassis tube a little tight, so i put the Dremel Flexi Shaft into good use and it worked perfectly.
Diff in place and centralised.  I used two washers on the left struts and one on the right.  The alignment seemed perfect, and after Derek at CC said it doesn't need to be too accurate, I was satisfied with my work.  All bolts torqued to 60nm as specified.
Diff in place and centralised.  I used two washers on the left struts and one on the right.  The alignment seemed perfect, and after Derek at CC said it doesn't need to be too accurate, I was satisfied with my work.  All bolts torqued to 60nm as specified.
Driveshaft flanges removed from diff.
Driveshaft flanges removed from diff.
The view inside the diff.
The view inside the diff.
Propshaft attached to diff, but found it hard to torque the bolts to the specified 60nm, stuck a quick post on Blatchat, and got a reply, stick a long screwdriver in the UJ to lock it - can't believe I didn't think of that..!
Propshaft attached to diff, but found it hard to torque the bolts to the specified 60nm, stuck a quick post on Blatchat, and got a reply, stick a long screwdriver in the UJ to lock it - can't believe I didn't think of that..!
All in all I feel like I've achieved quite a lot tonight, so a satisfying evening.  Tomorrow evening I'll fill the diff  and try and get the De Dion tube and rear suspension on.

Tuesday 11 February 2014

Build Day Eight - Finalising heater and Diff allignment

After last nights spat at Caterham about some of the issues I came across, I've had the usual super swift response from Derek.  A new (hopefully!) track day roll bar will arrive tomorrow, along with a fluid pack that I ordered from the parts department.  I've also had confirmation that the hole in the chassis is in fact 'normal' as this is where the lowered floor is sealed against the chassis and this will be rectified in the post build check.

Today I received the (new) build manual and the heater pipe work that was missing.  I'll look forward to getting the heater bolted and sealed to the car.  I'll then move onto aligning the diff, removing the diff caps and attaching the prop shaft.  I may also try and get the washer bottle installed and that should render the tunnel section pretty much complete (fingers crossed).

New assembly guide and heater parts arrived this morning.
New assembly guide and heater parts arrived this morning.
Heater finished, the other tasks got somewhat suspended until tomorrow as I couldn't get the prop shaft guard in place - cue call to Derek tomorrow morning..!

This caused me a lot of hassle.. Had to remove the diff, prop shaft and try and place it in the tunnel.  No chance - it's far too tight, so I'll see what Derek's solution is and try and get what I wanted to do tonight done tomorrow evening.
I received the heater pipework this evening, so I installed and set up the heater control mechanism too - all seems to work fine.
I received the heater pipework this evening, so I installed and set up the heater control mechanism too - all seems to work fine.

Very fine bead of clear silicone used to seal the top part of the heater to the bodywork.
Very fine bead of clear silicone used to seal the top part of the heater to the bodywork.
 I then moved onto trying to get my head around the De Dion, and how that all went together so I can try and get some more of this completed tomorrow night too.
Brake lines riveted to the De Dion
Brake lines riveted to the De Dion
It wasn't exactly what I'd set out to do tonight, but every little step is progress!

Monday 10 February 2014

Build Day Seven, Handbrake Fitting and Diff Positioning

Another slow day, again spending miles more time sorting through boxes and bags trying to find the right bits.

I checked with Derek at CC this morning regarding the installation of the handbrake, and his suggestion was to use to top of the two front handbrake mounting holes, use the top connector on the switch and to ensure the handbrake cable was twisted as this stops the handbrake cable rubbing on the edges of the tunnel.

Handbrake switch, note connection block plugged into top switch connector.
Handbrake switch, note connection block plugged into top switch connector.

Handbrake in place mounted through top front mounting hole and handbrake cable twisted as per Derek's instructions.
Handbrake in place mounted through top front mounting hole and handbrake cable twisted as per Derek's instructions.

Prop shaft placed in tunnel prior to diff installation as per instructions.
Prop shaft placed in tunnel prior to diff installation as per instructions.
Diff on jack prior to final positioning.
Diff on jack prior to final positioning.

Removed the fuel tank so filling of the diff should be easier.  It also happens that the fuel pump is still on back order (with no ETA right now!) so I assume having the tank out will make fitting the pump a touch easier.
Removed the fuel tank so filling of the diff should be easier.  It also happens that the fuel pump is still on back order (with no ETA right now!) so I assume having the tank out will make fitting the pump a touch easier.
LSD top view prior to installation.
LSD top view prior to installation.

View of handbrake arrangement now diff has been lifted into place.  I'm pretty sure the cable on the left isn't right how it is, so will check with Derek in the morning.
View of handbrake arrangement now diff has been lifted into place.  I'm pretty sure the cable on the left isn't right how it is, so will check with Derek in the morning.
I have checked the handbrake cable arrangement (as per pic above this morning) and this is in fact correct.
Handbrake locator in place on the diff as per the instructions.
Handbrake locator in place on the diff as per the instructions.
The diff needs to be aligned tomorrow, but I wanted to check the handbrake cable location prior to fiddling around with the alignment of the diff, only to have to change it again (if the handbrake cable needs moving again)

Had a look through some other boxes to try and find things that I could do quickly tonight, and I checked out in detail the track day roll bar... Turns out I've got another item from a different customer, but this is the worst so far... It looks like the other customer has returned this - as you can see from the tape on the second and third pics, it looks to have been returned as damaged due to marks on the top bar in the powder coat.  Seriously Caterham........

Customers name and order number... I think?
Customers name and order number... I think?

First tape from previous customer pointing to the mark on the powder coating.
First tape from previous customer pointing to the mark on the powder coating.

Tape on other side of roll bar - surely this is outside of the already long in the tooth "it's all part of the experience statement"
Tape on other side of roll bar - surely this is outside of the already long in the tooth "it's all part of the experience statement"
And as I was on on the underneath of the car I spotted this hole in the chassis / bodywork.  This slap dash approach to customer service / quality control is really beginning to get on my goat.
Visible hole in chassis - surely this isn't right?
Visible hole in chassis - surely this isn't right?